International Mankini Challenge

Aside from the natural and man-made wonders you’ll find in Latin America, there are some experiences and facts about living here that will just confound you.

Top 5 Things You Won’t Believe About South and Central America

1. Get shot wearing bullet proof clothing, Bogota – pay Bogota’s Miguel Caballero, the ‘Armani of bulletproof clothing’, and the clother of international politicians, drug barons and the Colombian Military (to name a few) a small sum to try out his bullet proof clothing with real bullets being fired at you (do not wear a Mankini!)

2. San Pedro Prison, Bolivia – get a tour inside the prison by the prisoners seeing how they have to buy their cells, get to live with their families and set up prison businesses to survive. Oh, and get offered cocaine from the factory inside

3. Cocaine factory, Colombia – see how coca leaves are turned into cocaine paste in the foothills of northern Colombia

4. Running of the bulls in Granada, Nicaragua – if you thought Pampalona was crazy then you haven’t seen anything! 6 bulls running at once with no safety precautions. This year five people and one horse died. I had the Mankini on under my clothes but am glad I didn’t bust it out!

5. Ruta 36 (known as Route 36 to backpackers), Bolivia – go to a bar that serves you cocaine on CD cases … oh, and drinks

As a note I’d like to say that I don’t advocate the taking of drugs. However I recognise that drugs are a part of some countries past and some countries present and either way are facinating to an inquisitive traveller like me.

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Where there’s good there is inevitably bad. And while Latin America has a plethora of amazing places to see, there are definitely a couple you don’t need to get off the bus for.

Top 5 Worst Places in South and Central America

1. Oruro, Bolivia – Unless you are here for Carnival, and even then only come for a day as the smell of urine will be overpowering, avoid Oruro. It has no redeeming features or places of interest

2. Montevideo, Uruguay – Dull, dull and dull. The Old Town is nothing to write home about, other than to say you’ve survived it maybe, and the main Plaza is decidely average. You could visit the football stadium that hosted the first ever World Cup … if it’s not crumbled away

3. Ushuaia, Argentina – Unless you’re off to antarctica, don’t bother with Ushuaia. It’s expensive, cold and full of casinos. I can see why it’s been the southern most city in the world now

4. Matagalpa, Nicaragua – While it has a great little organic chocolate factory, it’s well promoted treks through Selva Negra should be avoided – as should the especially rude locals (which is highly unusual for Nicaragua it has to be said)

5. Cuenca, Ecuador – yes it is a pretty city, but there’s only so much building watching one can do here. I think that’s why it’s a good place to learn Spanish, there are few distractions

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I have a conundrum. The more backpackers I tell about the fantastic small places in South and Central America, the greater the likelihood they’ll go and subsequently tell others. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t think I’ll be able to take credit for a rise in traveller numbers to any of my top 5, however I will contribute. In my experience the more popular places become, the bigger they get and the more commercialised they become. Eventually they look nothing like they did to start with and lose their appeal. Take Cancun and Playa del Carmen in Mexico as an example. Neighbour Tulum, while great at the moment, will no doubt be the next to fall.

However my conundrum is that if I don’t tell people about these places, people who I know would love them may not get to see them in all their glory. And so subscribing to the idea that it’s better to have loved and lost than to have never loved at all, check out my top tips below (you’ll notice I didn’t take any pictures for the International Mankini Challenge in any of these places. The reason? They are not yet iconic locations…maybe they soon will be).

Top 5 Small Places in South and Central America

1. Salento (Zona Cafetera, Colombia) – Salento is quite possibly one of the most beautiful and tranquil places I’ve ever been in the world. A quaint town with very friendly local people, surrounded by beautiful rolling hills that are adorned in wax palms e.g. the Valle de Cocora. Add to this the coffee fields and breathtaking sunsets and you have my favourite place in Latin America. I’ve not yet heard one bad word said about the place from the countless number of other travellers I’ve recommended it to. Please be gentle with it and treat it with respect.

2. San Pedro de Atacama (Chile) – In the heart of the Atacama desert in northern Chile, San Pedro de Atacama is like no other place I visited in Latin America. A laid back hippy-like atmosphere runs through this two street town that acts as one of the major hubs of those crossing the famous Salar de Uyuni. Yes it maybe full of tour agencies, but that’s because there’s so much to see. Some of the world’s biggest telescopes reside near the town pointed at the clearest star filled sky you’re ever likely to see, and you can get a tour of it thanks to the SPACE agency. Check out the local geysers, swim in the salt lakes, sandboard or take quad bikes through Moon and Death Valley. Just whatever you do, make sure you plan to have enough time here!

3. Little Corn (The Corn Islands, Nicaragua) – A one hour flight and 20 minute speed boat ride from Nicaragua’s capital, Managua, or a six hour chicken bus ride, two hour speedboat and up to 10 hour cargo boat ride from the same place may help explain why The Corn Islands seem to be missed off of 95% of Central American backpackers itineraries (we recommend the flight). Their loss!

Made up of Big Corn and Little Corn (the much nicer island), the Corn Islands are a hidden Caribbean gem that shouldn’t be missed. English speaking (with heavy West Indian accents), this beautiful beach paradise has cheap and beautiful diving, awesome snorkelling and fantastic local food (coconut bread fresh out the oven and great seafood). A great beach hut that sleeps three costs just US$15 between you (or cheaper if you stay 3+ nights)!

4. El Chalten (Patagonia, Argentina) – Patagonia is a famous region for experienced climbers and hikers. For your novice outdoorsmen, like myself, there is still plenty to do and see. A fairly straightforward hike to The Fitz Roy range of mountains can be done in a day, with you getting back in time for dinner. A number of other shorter hikes are also available but with less rewarding views. On a clear day the views are truly spectacular and far better than it’s more famous competitor, Torres Del Paine, just over the border in Chile. I’m led to believe that El Chalten, a three hour bus ride from El Calafate, has strict building restrictions. Let’s hope so as at the moment it is home to wide open spaces and a feeling that you’re in the middle of nowhere!

5. Montanita (Ecuador) – A short four hour bus ride from the ugly Guayaquil in southern Ecuador is the beach town of Montanita. With wide open beaches, that only fill up at weekends when the locals head up the coast, you can enjoy the warm water and learn how to surf in a pleasant environment. With fantastic deals on breakfasts and lunches and a great taste to match, you’ll think all your Christmases have come at once when I tell you the local Rum (Ron Jacinta) is only US$2.50 a litre! What is a quiet town in the day goes off at night as the sandy roads and wooden bars fill with people for some good natured partying. Hola Hola is a popular joint for its pool parties! Don’t worry, this is no Greek Islands or Southern Spain! It’s partying how it should be.

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Latin America is a great continent, no doubt. Unfortunately I think people get a little carried away and travel writers are no different. Some of the descriptions in guidebooks, I would say, are fairly wide of the mark. In very few instances I would even challenge if the writer has been to the place they’ve written about and haven’t instead used some frivolous marketing materials.

With expectations set high then, it’s only natural that you’ll be let down on the odd occasion.

Top 5 Let Downs in South and Central America

1. El Salvador surfing – maybe I caught it at a bad time, but ugly beaches, break right next to the shore and crowded surf was a big let down for what I was told was El Salvador’s highlight, Don’t let this put you off of El Salvador though, the rest of the place and the people are fantastic!

2. Devil’s Nose train, Ecuador - I felt hugely let down by Lonely Planet (LP) here. I think whoever wrote about the Devil’s Nose train just copied some marketing propaganda. What a waste of time. The views were OK but nothing you can’t get elsewhere in a multitude of places (and you can no longer ride on the train roof). I never use LP as a travel bible, but the entry is way off of the mark I’m afraid

3. Ometepe Island, Nicaragua – granted it did rain for the 3 days I spent here, but I’m confused as to why people rave about this place. Again Lonely Planet’s descriptions of certain elements left a lot to be desired. The best bit is the view from the boat on the way over

4. Lima, Peru – as Capital cities go this one was very dull indeed

5. Costa Rica – what is a very beautiful country is spoiled by too much American tourism. Prices are sky high, everyone speaks English and you feel like you’re in the 51st State

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One thing Latin America is not short of is beautiful coastline and beaches. As I said before, I unfortunately missed out five countries in South America and only travelled through the south of Brazil, so the list below may change once I get to see the bits I missed last time.

Top 5 Beaches in South and Central America

1. Tulum, Mexico – down the coast from the mayhem of Cancun and Playa del Carmen, little Tulum has quiet beaches and sand like talcum powder

2. Little Corn, Nicaragua – long empty beaches and beautiful blue seas that aren’t cold at all are paradise, Don’t miss this place out when you go to Nicaragua

3. Tayrona National Park, Colombia – Caribbean coast in a beautiful setting of a national park near the diving resort of Tanganga

4. Montanita, Ecuador – wide empty beaches that you can swim or surf at with no litter. The water is also a great temperature

5. Florianopolis, Brazil – waves for learner and beginner surfers alike. The sand isn’t half bad either. Only problem is the locals who aren’t fans of the mankini

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Every country has features that are maybe less redeeming than others. Sometimes what maybe offensive to one person is seen as completely acceptable to another. It depends where you’re from, what you’re used to and your culture. I’ll be honest though, I struggled to get five things about Latin America I didn’t like.

Top 5 Most Annoying Things About South and Central America

1. Car horns – wherever you are in Latin America, car horns will make up the bulk of traffic noise. It doesn’t matter if the line of traffic is a mile long, drivers think blaring the horn will magically move things along quicker

2. Litter – for such beautiful countries it’s ashame that the locals are so carefree with their litter. looking after the environment isn’t high on these people’s agendas

3. Hissing/cat calls at girls – this happens a lot to foreign women. Guys can be with their wives and families and still make it clear they’d like to get to know another lady better!

4. Mis-directions – rather than admit that they don’t know, proud locals would rather make up directions than tell you they don’t know. Not great if you’re in a hurry or just generally have no clue where you are

5. State of the pavements (that’s sidewalks if you’re American) – don’t spend too much time looking around at your surroundings or you may disappear down a hole big enough to swallow a small family or get a toe severed by a random metal object (as I nearly did in Mexico)

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Wherever you backpack or travel to in the world, the place you stay and the people you meet contribute a large amount to how much you enjoy that town or city. I’m not a backpacker that travels hostels as I term it (i.e. travellers, usually young, who travel from one place to another because they’ve heard the hostel is great rather than choosing their route based on place), but I do appreciate a well run place.

There are loads of things that for me contribute to a good hostel. Some things hostels have control over (e.g. comfortable beds, cleanliness, adequate storage, secure lockers, good travel information, polite staff, a kitchen, a reasonably priced bar/restaurant, good communal areas, a big book exchange … I could go on) and some things they don’t (e.g. the crowd staying – though I think a reputation of a hostel can influence this). I also recognise that at different times during a trip you’ll want different things from a hostel e.g. you maybe travelling alone and want a very social/party hostel, or you may need to chill and want the opposite.

I’ve compiled a list of hostels I stayed at during my 13 months in Latin America that hit the spot (and where I usually recruited my International Mankini Challenge photogrpahers). That’s not to say there aren’t other great hostels out there, but these were my favourites.

Top 5 Hostels in South and Central America

1. La Iguana Perdida (Santa Cruz, Lake Atitlan, Guatemala) – Lake Atitlan in Guatemala is a volcanic lake surrounded by nine villages. The popular backpacker spot is the village of San Pedro. However I’d heard from a handful of trusted people about a great location with an equally great hostel called La Iguana Perdida in the village of Santa Cruz, and I wasn’t disappointed. The hostel is set right on the edge of the lake offering beautiful views and great sunsets from the comfort of a hammock. The rooms are clean and comfortable, the staff were really friendly, superb food, activities such as diving, kayaking, walks etc, I could go on. What really made it for me was the friendly and fun atmosphere. You all eat together at night, they politely ask you not to watch TV after 7pm and instead socialise in the bar. The games come out and for the 4 nights I was there, you have an unforgettable experience.

2. Backpacker Share House (Floripa, Florianopolis, Brazil) – I’d heard of the great beach resort of Floripa in the south of Brazil. Wanting to hone my surfing skills I checked in to the highly recommended Backpacker Share House. With free use of surfboards, kayaks, bodyboards, rash vests etc you’ve all the kit you need at your finger tips. If I’m honest the rooms are a little small for the number of people, but just like La Iguana Perdida mentioned above, the family vibe of the hostel is great. Everyone hangs out with everyone, most people eat together again at night, as they put on great and very reasonably priced food, and the partying kicks off big style thanks to the honesty bar – you chalk your own drinks up here. In the 12 months I spent in Latin America after visiting Floripa, this hostel was by far and away the one I heard recommended the most by travellers to other travellers.

3. Loki (La Paz, Bolivia) – This will no doubt be a contentious choice for many. There are currently four Loki hostels in Bolivia and Peru and I stayed in them all. Some people love them and some people hate them. I personally think some are better than others. Loki La Paz has about 120 beds and so is a decent size. As a lone traveller you can sometimes get lost in a big hostel, but not here. Everyone I met was friendly and a good laugh. Yes it can be loud and raucous, but I found the staff knowledgeable and helpful (the Irish hospitality of the owner is evident everywhere here). The beds are huge and comfy and the addition of a duvet is a real treat after months of sheets and itchy blankets. The bar in the hostel is also the social centre for the whole of the La Paz backpacking crowd I’d say.

4. La Casa de Felipe (Taganga, Colombia) – Courtesy of the Dutch chef, the food here is unbelievable. It’s like your eating at your favourite restaurant from home. Add to this a huge outdoor area to eat and drink in and La Casa de Felipe offers a great choice while you dive in Taganga. Personally I had a great room that slept six and we had out own kitchen, bathroom and patio. But I know other rooms aren’t as lucky/nice. However the staff were really friendly and helpful and after a 5 day trek one of the local receptionists even loaned me her spare room at her house down the road when the hostel was full (which it more often that not is).

5. 1004 Penthouse (Bariloche, Argentina) – Hands up, I didn’t stay here (it was always full). But I did pop in frequently to have a drink at the bar that offers unrivalled views of the town and lake, and for the great tour information. Situated on the 10th floor of an apartment block (you literally knock on the door expecting to find a two bed apartment like the rest of the block only to be met by a huge hostel penthouse) I’ve never seen a hostel like this. It looks and feels like an apartment inside as it’s finished to a high specification. Friends who stayed here rave about it!

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As I’ve stated before, I missed out Venezuela, Paraguay, Suriname, French Guiana and Guyana on my trip to South America and so I can only apologise for that. But based on the other 15 countries I visited in Latin America, these are the International Mankini Challenge favourites.

Top 5 Countries to Visit in South and Central America

1. Colombia – the diversity of what is on offer to see and do here is amazing. If you can think of it, there’s a place to do it. Don’t be put off by Colombia’s past, it’s a very different place now and constantly evolving – but please respect it

2. Argentina – the wine regions of Mendoza, the slopes of Bariloche, the Tango in Buenos Aires, the trekking in Patagonia and Iguazu Falls. I can think of more reasons of why to go that not!

3. Brazil - a massive country with a massive personality. You’ll not be disappointed, just give yourself enough time

4. Nicaragua – my favourite Central American country. Loads to do and not dangerous outside of Managua. Just make sure you get over to the Corn Islands (Little Corn is nicer) too

5. Guatemala – easy to travel and so it’s a little touristy. A good starter country if you’re new to backpacking

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One of the great things about travelling the world is finding new foods and drinks and even eating better quality versions of favourites from back home. It doesn’t matter if you’re on a backpacker budget, cheap food doesn’t mean bad food in Latin America

Top 5 foods in South and Central America

1. Steak from Las Cabras, Argentina – it’s been known to turn veggies into meat eaters, such is the thickness and taste of the steak

2. BBQ from Fran’s Grill, Belize – lobster tails, Barracuda steak, garlic bread, mash potato, Oreo cheesecake and rum all for $10

3. Chicken or meat Saltado, Peru – rice, onions, tomato, peppers etc is mixed together with meat to leave your mouth watering. Who’d have thought such simple ingredients could taste so good

4. Lobster, San Blas Islands – $1.50 for a whole freshly caught lobster and coconut rice. Possibly the cheapest in the world?

5. Empanadas – the staple snack and bus food of South America. Happiness in a pastry

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Latin America enjoys not only a wealth of man-made sights built over the centuries that leave you awestruck, but also some of the most naturally beautiful parts of the world you are ever likely to see. Trying to limit my list to five was almost impossible!

You may notice that 4 of the top 5 were also mankini picture locations. The only regret of my recent travels was not getting a mankini shot on the Brazilian side of the breathtaking Iguazu Falls.

Top 5 Naturally occurring sights in South and Central America

1. Iguazu Falls, Argentina and Brazil – words fail me. It’s like being on a film set or something. It’s hard to believe the waterfalls are real

2. Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina – the creaking noise as the glacier moves and the beautiful snow fields are like nothing you’ll have ever seen before. However it’s chilly in a Mankini

3. The Galapagos Islands, Ecuador – nature at its most pure. Probably why the sea lions didn’t like the Mankini that much

4. Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia – one of many Bolivian jewels, the contrast between these salt flats and ‘normal scenery’ is mind blowing. You’ll recognise Facebook pictures of people who have been there as they’ll be sat on a Coke bottle or in someone’s palm …

5. Volcano Pacaya, Guatemala – hot stuff as you get within metres of lava rolling down the slopes as you roast your marshmallows

The mud volcano in Cartagena (Colombia) and the Dos Ojos cenote in Mexico (made even more famous in the BBC’s Planet Earth series) also had strong shouts in what for me, was the hardest category to judge.

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